Flannel, linen, wool: which cloth for which season?

The Journal

Cloth

Flannel, linen, wool: which cloth for which season?

Weight and weave matter more than the month on the calendar: our guide, from linen to tweed.

The same suit can be a joy or an ordeal depending on its cloth. Two things decide: the weight, shown in grams on our product pages, and the way the cloth is woven.

Worsted wool, for all year round

It is the foundation of the wardrobe. Smooth and crisp, it holds its shape well. At around 310 g, like our Kensington in navy ‘grain de caviar’, it can be worn all year round, at the office as in the evening.

Flannel, the cloth of winter

Flannel is a soft, slightly downy wool with a beautiful drape. Our Kensington in navy flannel weighs 340 g, an autumn/winter weight. Softer and warmer than a smooth wool, flannel tempers the rigour of the cut.

Navy flannel suit, Le Kensington WICKET
Le Kensington in navy flannel, 340 g.

Tweed, for the depths of winter

Dense and warm, tweed is worn mostly as a jacket, with flannel or corduroy trousers. It is a cloth made for the coldest days.

Linen, for the hottest days

Cool and natural, linen is the material of hot days. It creases, and that is its charm: a linen suit does not try to stay immaculate. Our Kensington in blue linen, dressier than a pale linen, can be worn in town as well as on holiday.

Blue linen canvas suit, Le Kensington WICKET
Le Kensington in blue linen canvas.

Tropical wool, to stay dressed in summer

If linen seems too relaxed for you, tropical wool is the right answer. Light, at around 230 g, it breathes in the heat and stays crisp. Our Kensington in navy tropical wool, known as the ‘Travel Suit’, is the suit for travel and summer days. A blend of wool and mohair, for its part, adds a subtle sheen that catches the light.

If you take only one

Choose a medium-weight wool, around 310 g, in navy or grey. It is the cloth that will serve you on the most days of the year. You can then add a flannel for winter and a light cloth for summer.

In store

A suit is decided at the fitting. Our three Paris shops welcome you from Tuesday to Saturday, 11 am to 7 pm.

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